The Javanol molecule is at the heart of Escentric Molecules 04, the new fragrance creation by Geza Schön which takes sandalwood into a new dimension.
Radically reduced: Molecule 04
Molecule 04 contains pure Javanol, a next-generation sandalwood molecule that is powerful and yet soft. It unfolds to reveal a new take on sandalwood, without the heaviness and instead with a novel, soft, shimmering freshness.
A reinterpretation of sandalwood: Escentric 04
In Escentric 04, Javalnol is surrounded by other notes. The fragrance is a unique and very distinctive interpretation of sandalwood that is not heavily woody; instead, it is lifted in the headnote through the addition of zesty, bitter pink grapefruit peel, juniper and pink pepper. A hint of marihuana emphasises the soft aromas of grapefruit. At the heart, iris (orris) blossoms alongside a new rose accord composed by Geza Schön. Escentric 04 fades to the balsamic-woody note of Javanol and the slightly sweeter sandalwood molecule Polysantol.
The Escentric 04 fragrance pyramid
Top: Methyl Pampelmousse | Pink Grapefruit | Marijuana | Bergamot | Juniper Berry | Pink Pepper
Heart: Hedione | Freesia | Osmanthus | Orris | Rose
Base: Javanol | Mastic | Labdanum | Iso E Super | Musk | Ambroxan | Castoreum | Vetiver
Both fragrances are available through us from April on.
Eau de Parfum | 100 ml | RRP 130 €
The third fragrance by the Hamburg label Atelier PMP is anything but “anti”. The Eau de Parfum was composed by perfume artists Mark Buxton and David Chieze – an olfactive modernist statement that calls out for attention.
anti anti is not against, it is for: for life with all its ups and downs, for people with all their differences. anti anti is not a counter-fragrance, it is a modern creation for freedom of mind, freedom of being, freedom to be other. It celebrates the pleasure of the moment, and was created for people with attitude, people with inspiration and ideas.
anti anti is elegant and honest at the same time. It is ultra-modern and simultaneously soft and edgy, smoky and fresh – but always inscrutable. A creation that is as contradictory as a contemporary sculpture, presented in a bottle made of white marble, gold and glass.
anti anti is available to order from us now.
50 ml Eau de Parfum | RRP €120.00
High Noon in the fragrance world: will be a brand presents Project Renegades
Project Renegades is the new all-star team from the world of artisan perfumes. Fragrance rebels Geza Schön, Mark Buxton and Bertrand Duchaufour have given their alter egos a free rein and let them loose as rebel cowboys in a fantasy Wild West: untamed, deeply creative and utterly out of control – with three fragrances that are available now from will be a brand.
Geza Schön’s fragrance is an olfactory portrait of the Peruvian pepper tree – from berries to bark to leaves.
Mark Buxton’s fragrance is woody, spicy – with a smoky leather rose blossoming at its heart.
Bertrand Duchaufour’s fragrance opens with pink pepper – and ends in a bracing aquatic breeze.
Three perfumers, three fragrances, three avatars: wild, crazy and breathtakingly creative. These attributes sum up the triumvirate Schön|Buxton|Duchaufour and their Project Renegades. The packaging is peppered with bullet holes, the boxes feature tripped-out artwork that blends graffiti and steampunk comics, each bottle has a magnetic avatar of the perfume cowboy responsible for creating it – and the scents are in a world of their own.
NASENGOLD indulges in lust and luxury:
Right on time for the label’s fourth birthday, the Hamburg-based perfume house NASENGOLD presents its fourth scent: /L is voluptuous, luxurious, irreverent – and remarkably relaxed at the same time. The fragrance is available now from will be a brand.
The very latest bait from the Hamburg perfume house NASENGOLD is called /L (pronounced: Slash L): a scent that could only be by NASENGOLD, the label and creative cosmos of the Hamburg perfumer Christian Plesch. For /L, Christian Plesch has combined fruity notes with a subtle tang and contrasted these with herbal, resiny notes. Flowers blossom in the heart before /L languidly sinks into the profound, smoky depths of leather, woods and costly incense.
“Luxury, lust and longing are what the new fragrance stands for. The secret this time lies in luxurious extravagance! /L is hypnotic, it aims to seduce, perhaps even be a little addictive. And despite its depth, it is completely relaxed”, says Christian Plesch, describing his new fragrance creation. “/L is unencumbered luxury!“
Spring is definitely in the air. Here, in Berlin, the trees are in bud and the sap seems to be rising everywhere. What better time to take a closer look at pheromones – and their allegedly aphrodisiac effect in perfumes. Pheromones are reputed to make the person wearing them irresistible. We know from plants and animals that this is true. And if you’ve ever read or seen “Perfume” you may have an idea of what it can trigger in humans.
Unfortunately, this is all fiction. Scientists have yet to discover a single molecule that has been clinically proven to be a human pheromone. Bold advertising slogans claiming the opposite should be taken with a generous pinch of salt. However, that does not mean that these human messenger substances do not exist. They just haven’t been found yet. For me it would be a real sensation if they were identified by a perfumer – rather than a scientist.
Pheromone receptors have been found in humans. We appear to have the genes for five receptors. In contrast: animals have genes for 300. These miniscule receptors – which seem to have become smaller over the evolution of humankind – are located in the nasal septum.
I have read that there is a molecule that these receptors actually respond to: synthetic hedione, which smells very slightly of jasmine. This substance can be found in gs03 by biehl. parfumkunstwerke, in The Beautiful Mind Series Vol. 1, in Kinski Fragrance and Escentric02. And then there’s Molecule01: many people have reported that it has a pheromonic effect. The molecule used in this fragrance compound, pure Iso E Super, lends an absolutely irresistible allure to the wearer, but it isn’t classed as a pheromone.
There is, however, one thing that really does have an aphrodisiac effect: when a person is wearing a fragrance that really suits them.
The inspiration for the new perfume by MEMO Paris is a town in Texas that has fascinated artists for generations: Marfa. The perfume is also the first in a new collection called Art Land by the Parisian fragrance artists and is available now from will be a brand.
Works of art created in and inspired by nature – this is the point of departure for the new collection Art Land by MEMO Paris. The first fragrance in the collection is Marfa
, a scent inspired by the aura of the eponymous town of artists in the Texan desert: the white heat of the endless landscapes, the hot sun and dusty heat, the inexplicable light phenomena in the night sky. Marfa is an el Dorado for artists who confront and shape the intensity of nature
This myth-laden place is not only reflected in the name of the scent, but also in its olfactive presence. The uniquely creative scent gives centre-stage to the tuberose, which is related to the agave plants that flourish in the high plains of Marfa.
Oil of mandarin | Orange blossom absolute | Agave accord | Tuberose absolute | Oil of ylang-ylang | oil of sandalwood | Oil of cedar | Vanilla | White musk
The key notes:
Orange blossom absolute | Tuberose absolute | White musk
Not that long ago I wrote about the OPhone in this blog– a telephone that can send scents. Now, there’s a new connection between the world of electronics and the world of perfumes: Sensorwake, an alarm clock that wakes you with scent.
The choice of fragrances is pretty tasty: Croissant, Espresso, Seaside, Lush Jungle, Chocolate and Pepper Mint, anyone? The idea has been around for a while, but it only recently scooped up a prize at the tech show CES. The design is by a young Frenchman, Guillame Rolland (18). You can watch a short film about Rolland and his invention on the arte online channel. The company behind the actual scents is one of the usual suspects: the fragrance multinational Givaudan.
So what do I think of it? I’d have to have a sniff. If the scents are good, then it’s a very tempting idea. However, it could be a bit disappointing to get out of bed and not find a warm croissant and a steaming cup of coffee waiting on the breakfast table. By the way: after three minutes of emitting the scent of your choice the clock takes a more conventional approach to waking you up by sounding an alarm. Just to be on the safe side…
So often, I read or hear things about niche perfumes that are quite simply not true. One of these rumours concerns the ingredients.
It is a common fallacy to state that the niche perfumery uses mainly natural ingredients. Unfortunately, that’s wrong.
Sure, there are perfumers who either wholly or partially base their creations on natural ingredients. Tanja Bochnig of April Aromatics is an excellent example, and naturalness is at the core of her brand’s identity. However, she is an exception in her focus and the quality of her products.
Others say that a niche perfume uses as few ingredients as possible. That’s wrong, too – even if Geza Schön did manage to make a perfume with only one single fragrance molecule. By the way, Geza is a great example of a supremely creative niche perfumer who doesn’t use all-natural ingredients.
I simply can’t repeat it too often: what defines niche perfumery is the creativity of the artist, creativity that is completely unfettered by the market or by big businesses. This is why there are niche perfumes that contain one, a handful or a myriad ingredients, that are composed with synthetic and/or natural scents. There is only one all-encompassing statement you can make about niche perfumes: the concentration of the fragrance is usually a lot higher than in mass-market products.
So, ultimately, the one thing you can say about niche perfumes is that the perfumers are completely free to choose the ingredients they want – unlike in industrial perfumery. Niche perfumes give the artists the freedom and scope to pursue their creative vision and blaze a scented trail.
Anyone who has ever searched for “Travel” in this blog will know that I have written about fragrances and travelling several times. There’s a very good reason for this: I believe that there are special places which have their very own, individual fragrance, a smell that lingers in the mind. Most perfumers will be unable to resist the temptation of capturing olfactory impressions in a fragrance. The luxury label MEMO Paris has elevated this temptation into an art form.
MEMO Paris is based in Paris, founders Clara and John Molloy come from Andalusia and Ireland, the fabulous Hungarian-French perfumer Aliénor Massenet creates the fragrances. This cosmopolitan constellation brings together influences and inspiration from afar and their creations are an invitation to set off on a magical olfactory journey. MEMO Paris stands for memory: a fragrance as a journey to distant places, as a discovery, experience and celebration.
The MEMO Paris map of the world comprises impressions from Africa, Asia, South America, Arabia and Europe. These olfactory journeys are concentrated in four collections: Les Echappées, Cuirs Nomades, Graines Vagabondes and the sumptuously luxurious Escales Extraordinaires.
I am delighted that 21 exquisite creations by MEMO Paris are now available through will be a brand. We pride ourselves on being at the spearhead of new German niche perfumery, and we know that nobody will be able to resist the French perfumery art of MEMO Paris.