Dirty Shades of Grey – Tackling the shady side of perfumery

The grey market is a topic I have written about before. Regrettably, it’s also something that just refuses to go away, meaning that it’s time to take a closer look at the shady side of the perfume business. With our perfume artworks – which some people call niche perfumery – we are increasingly facing a massive wave of grey market goods on a scale that is severely damaging for our business. These grey market products include:

– Cheap re-imports, i.e. originals where the best – before date has usually expired. In violation of distribution agreements, these products are being brought into our sales region by other distributors. Their fate is to be flogged off like the cheapest mass-market scents.
– Stolen goods.
– Counterfeit products from the Middle East and Asia.

So how do you tell the good apples from the bad? Well, we’ve just made the task of distinguishing between authorised distributors and the grey market a whole lot easier with our new database, which allows customers and consumers to search for authorised retailers. The database also lists the black sheep – the sellers who are sabotaging our business. We’ll be updating this list continually as we receive new information, so be sure to check back regularly!  
One brand that is particularly affected by the grey market is Escentric Molecules, a label that has enjoyed a meteoric rise in the world of fine perfumery. Unfortunately, the downside of the brand’s fame and popularity are cheap reimports and fakes.
will be a brand has worked hard to establish the perfumes we represent as exclusive products: We want will be a brand perfumery art to remain something precious, and not become mass-market products (which is one reason we are so careful in selecting our points of sale). Products that are very scarce are also usually highly sought-after – this underlying fact has caused the grey market to flourish.

As a result, the grey market is seriously threatening our business. It is endangering the reputation of a fantastic brand. It tricks consumers, because a fragrance that is past its best-by date needs to be reapplied more often, the bottle is empty faster and ultimately, can end up being more expensive than buying the original. Quite apart from that, the grey market poses a potential threat to consumers in several ways. Not only is it illegal to buy stolen goods (and, under certain circumstances, also counterfeit products), cheap copies are highly unlikely to be laboratory tested. But then, what does consumer health matter if you can make a quick profit?
Let me put this in a nutshell: fragrances where retailers and consumers can be sure of authenticity, quality and product safety always come from an authorised distributor, like will be a brand.
There’s another point I wish to emphasise: our work doesn’t just involve distributing perfume artworks and exclusive brands. We are responsible for establishing these brands and building them up. We select the right sales channels, we organise training events and promotions. We are second to none in our profound knowledge of the segment, and we support, inform and assist our partners in the POS. Good service doesn’t come for free … which is an aspect that is included in the (higher) price!
There are many very good reasons to avoid luxury fragrances that are obviously TOO cheap. The fact that ultimately someone is going to pay the price – either through forfeiting their credibility, their health or their business – is at the top of the list.

The grey market completely lacks transparency and it is very difficult to contain it. The only people who can succeed in doing this in the long term are honest, authorised retailers – and consumers.

Things could be so easy…

It doesn’t always have to be EDP: MEMO Paris branches out with a new Bath Line

Eau de Parfum (EDP) is the gold standard in artisan perfumery. With its high concentration of fragrance oils – our perfume artists usually include between 12 and 22 per cent – EDP is pleasantly intense and has a lasting scent trail.

However, other concentrations and product forms also have their own, unique charm. MEMO Paris has set off on an olfactory excursion and arrived at a new Bath Line, which is based on five of the French luxury label’s most successful scents: Irish Leather, French Leather, Inlé, Lalibela and Kedu. These iconic fragrances are now available as Body Cream, Hand Cleansing Gel and Body Wash. These range additions will not only delight fans of the label, but are also a great way to experience the label’s super-exclusive perfumes. The new Bath Line is a fragrant gateway into the MEMO world.

We particularly love the fact that all the products are made with natural ingredients and plant extracts, and were formulated to be supremely gentle to the skin. They are all dermatologist/clinically tested, are free from GMO, parabens, petrolatum, silicone and synthetic colorants – and the range is vegan.

So, if you want to take a break from everyday life and go on an exclusive spa retreat with truly exquisite fragrances, this is your opportunity! Don’t hesitate! Individually or as a set, the new Bath Line is a fabulous addition to the MEMO family.

As well as the 15 individual products, there are two coffrets that are ideal for guests or for gifting: the Irish Leather Guest Kit 50 ml and the Irish Leather Wing Kit 100 ml are charming gestures for guests and friends. The Guest Kit contains 50 ml bottles of Body Wash, Shampoo, Body Cream and Conditioner, perfumed soap and a small fragrance sample (2 ml). The Irish Leather Wing Kit contains 100 ml bottles of the same products and a larger fragrance sample (10 ml).

will be a brand presents: Verdúu – Haute Couture of perfumery art

The new label Verdúu is sending its fragrances down the catwalk – and we mean that literally: Mark Buxton’s fragrances were created especially for up-and-coming fashion designers.

A new fragrance label, the higher echelons of perfume artistry and four aspiring fashion designers from Berlin and London: these are the ingredients for fragrance creations that mark the arrival of the label Verdúu in the world of niche perfumes.

The nose behind the label’s fragrances is perfumer Mark Buxton – and his compositions are daring, bold scents that are not accessories, but statements. Each fragrance represents the designer Hien Le, Michael Sontag und Sissi Götze, their inspiration, character and unique creative vision. The latest addition to the portfolio is the fragrance for Christopher Shannon.

Shake it, baby! Christian Plesch with his new line, WACKELWASSER

The perfume designer raised the bar with his label NASENGOLD: fragrances that eschew frills and fancies, fragrances with a very modern insolence. Now, Plesch is launching a second line: WACKELWASSER, which comprises two modern, sensual and zesty unisex creations.

Two effervescent fragrance compositions, composed with truly delicious ingredients: chilled orange fizz meets ginger, hot pepper mingles with malt beer. The Hamburg perfume designer Christian Plesch has again demonstrated his unique creativity with LIGHT WACKELWASSER and DARK WACKELWASSER.

WACKELWASSER feels bubbly, it tickles the nose – and gives a long jolt of pleasure. Fragrance designer Christian Plesch says: “Goosebumps are entirely intentional!”

The unusual name of the new collection has it own story: “WACKELWASSER” (wobbly water) is what Christian Plesch’s young daughter called sparkling mineral water.

 

DARK WACKELWASSER | Loud, pulsating beats and ecstatic intoxication, darkness and dissipated anonymity. Precious essences that reach out and draw you in: ginger, jasmine and malt twist a cord; cedar wood pulls it tight, vetiver guards the knot.

LIGHT WACKELWASSER | The lascivious morning sun, a Rococo beauty spot, clothes that have slipped, improvised piano playing. Invisible puppet strings guide our way – woven from Champagne bubbles, jasmine flowers and caramel, bound together with cedar wood. Droplets of rum drip down thin threads, refreshing and intoxicating in equal measure.

 

Escentric Molecules 04 has arrived: Futurist freshness with Javanol

The Javanol molecule is at the heart of Escentric Molecules 04, the new fragrance creation by Geza Schön which takes sandalwood into a new dimension.

Radically reduced: Molecule 04

Molecule 04 contains pure Javanol, a next-generation sandalwood molecule that is powerful and yet soft. It unfolds to reveal a new take on sandalwood, without the heaviness and instead with a novel, soft, shimmering freshness.

A reinterpretation of sandalwood: Escentric 04

In Escentric 04, Javalnol is surrounded by other notes. The fragrance is a unique and very distinctive interpretation of sandalwood that is not heavily woody; instead, it is lifted in the headnote through the addition of zesty, bitter pink grapefruit peel, juniper and pink pepper. A hint of marihuana emphasises the soft aromas of grapefruit. At the heart, iris (orris) blossoms alongside a new rose accord composed by Geza Schön. Escentric 04 fades to the balsamic-woody note of Javanol and the slightly sweeter sandalwood molecule Polysantol.

The Escentric 04 fragrance pyramid

Top: Methyl Pampelmousse | Pink Grapefruit | Marijuana | Bergamot | Juniper Berry | Pink Pepper
Heart: Hedione | Freesia | Osmanthus | Orris | Rose
Base: Javanol | Mastic | Labdanum | Iso E Super | Musk | Ambroxan | Castoreum | Vetiver

Both fragrances are available through us from April on.

Eau de Parfum | 100 ml | RRP 130 €

Olfactive modernism: will be a brand presents anti anti by Atelier PMP

The third fragrance by the Hamburg label Atelier PMP is anything but “anti”. The Eau de Parfum was composed by perfume artists Mark Buxton and David Chieze  – an olfactive modernist statement that calls out for attention.

anti anti is not against, it is for: for life with all its ups and downs, for people with all their differences. anti anti is not a counter-fragrance, it is a modern creation for freedom of mind, freedom of being, freedom to be other. It celebrates the pleasure of the moment, and was created for people with attitude, people with inspiration and ideas.

anti anti is elegant and honest at the same time. It is ultra-modern and simultaneously soft and edgy, smoky and fresh – but always inscrutable. A creation that is as contradictory as a contemporary sculpture, presented in a bottle made of white marble, gold and glass.

anti anti is available to order from us now.

50 ml Eau de Parfum | RRP €120.00

Atelier PMP - anti anti

 

NEW: PROJECT RENEGADES

High Noon in the fragrance world: will be a brand presents Project Renegades

Project Renegades is the new all-star team from the world of artisan perfumes. Fragrance rebels Geza Schön, Mark Buxton and Bertrand Duchaufour have given their alter egos a free rein and let them loose as rebel cowboys in a fantasy Wild West: untamed, deeply creative and utterly out of control – with three fragrances that are available now from will be a brand.

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Geza Schön’s fragrance is an olfactory portrait of the Peruvian pepper tree – from berries to bark to leaves.

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Mark Buxton’s fragrance is woody, spicy – with a smoky leather rose blossoming at its heart.

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Bertrand Duchaufour’s fragrance opens with pink pepper – and ends in a bracing aquatic breeze.

Three perfumers, three fragrances, three avatars: wild, crazy and breathtakingly creative. These attributes sum up the triumvirate Schön|Buxton|Duchaufour and their Project Renegades. The packaging is peppered with bullet holes, the boxes feature tripped-out artwork that blends graffiti and steampunk comics, each bottle has a magnetic avatar of the perfume cowboy responsible for creating it – and the scents are in a world of their own.

project-renegades_kombo

GOETZE GEGENWART

The inspiration: Time collapses, and history dilutes itself… moments of recollection and traces of a life between imagination, technology and the icons of the silver screen.

Top:       Bergamot | Ginger | Cardamom | Tea Note | Coriander
Heart:   Violet | Nutmeg | Lavender | Basil | Rose
Base:     Tonka | Sandel | Cedarwood | Vetiver | Leather Note | Amber | Musk

will be a brand presents the new fragrance /L

NASENGOLD indulges in lust and luxury:

Right on time for the label’s fourth birthday, the Hamburg-based perfume house NASENGOLD presents its fourth scent: /L is voluptuous, luxurious, irreverent – and remarkably relaxed at the same time. The fragrance is available now from will be a brand.

The very latest bait from the Hamburg perfume house NASENGOLD is called /L (pronounced: Slash L): a scent that could only be by NASENGOLD, the label and creative cosmos of the Hamburg perfumer Christian Plesch. For /L, Christian Plesch has combined fruity notes with a subtle tang and contrasted these with herbal, resiny notes. Flowers blossom in the heart before /L languidly sinks into the profound, smoky depths of leather, woods and costly incense.

“Luxury, lust and longing are what the new fragrance stands for. The secret this time lies in luxurious extravagance! /L is hypnotic, it aims to seduce, perhaps even be a little addictive. And despite its depth, it is completely relaxed”, says Christian Plesch, describing his new fragrance creation. “/L is unencumbered luxury!“