You know something is truly creative if you’re knocked off your feet by it, even as a fragrance pro at will be a brand. Molecule + knocked me off my feet and captivated me from the word go. The concept is spot on and the fragrances are – as one would expect – absolutely beguiling.
Sometimes it’s the simplest ideas that yield the best results – and, at the same time, coming up with an idea that is sublimely simple is supremely difficult. In fact, it takes incredible skill to reduce things intelligently and compellingly. Geza Schön has this skill in spades, as he has shown time and time again with his fragrance creations – and with Molecule + he has surpassed himself:
1) The Molecule + fragrances follow a clear concept – and that has always been one of the strengths of Escentric Molecules. A concept like this makes it easier to access a fragrance, it allows us to penetrate to the heart. This is an advantage not only for fragrance lovers, but also for the people who sell and recommend fragrances – our retail partners.
For M+, Geza Schön has combined the legendary Molecule 01, which is a fragrance based on pure synthetic Iso E Super, developed in 1973 by IFF – which just happens to be the year I was born – in three iterations, each with a singular natural olfactoric element: Mandarin, Patchouli and Iris. The simplicity of Iso E Super meets the complexity of a natural scent element – an encounter perfume creator Geza Schön describes as a “dance of molecules”. Each of the three fragrances is an olfactory pas de deux, to stick with the dance metaphor. These new creations add a plus to the fragrance revolution.
2) The M+ fragrances are radical, and they are also the next step in the fragrance revolution – with a plus, one which harmoniously integrates them in the overall concept of Escentric Molecules. Molecule 01 + 1 is the name of the formula – and where else would this concept have been conceivable or executed so flawlessly? This new concept is driven by radical creativity and incredible skill: “Only naturals have the complexity and radiance to work in a dance of two like this, while maintaining the simplicity of the concept”, says Geza Schön. Blending an abstract synthetic element with natural scent ingredients is daring and bold. The result is something completely new.
3) M+ plays with the structure and the perception of fragrance. With Molecule, Geza Schön relegated the fragrance pyramid to obsolescence – and with Escentric he filled it with life. Geza Schön explains that M+ is a “new way of composing fragrances”, based on the interaction between two elements. Due to its unique character and scent properties, each olfactoric element that meets Iso E Super triggers an effect that mimics levels of the fragrance pyramid. The fresh, juicy mandarin on Molecule 01 + Mandarin feels like a top note that gradually fades. Precious iris absolute in Molecule 01 + Iris develops slowly and intensely like a heart note. And the patchouli in Molecule 01 + Patchouli, which harmonises so perfectly with Molecule 01, lingers wonderfully as a base note.
In essence: M+ is a perfumery masterpiece, a bold continuation of Schön’s fragrance revolution. M+ gives us three new, magnificent gems – which I think are already undoubtedly among the most outstanding creations of this year. Just like Escentric 05, Geza Schön’s most personal fragrance to date, the new M+ series shows us more of the person behind the creation, because without the input of Schön’s partner Sophie this fragrance series would probably not have seen the light of day. For me, this combination of skill and personality opens up a whole new olfactory dimension.