There’s one aspect of perfumery art that rarely receives the recognition it deserves, namely the fact that it offers years of consistent creativity at the highest level. In other words: there are no flops that vanish from the market as fast as they are launched. Perfumery art delivers the classic fragrances of the future – and Escentric Molecules is one of the very best examples.
The label was founded in 2005, and in spring 2020 it will launch Molecule 05 and Escentric 05 – the latest fragrances in an incredible series. It goes without saying that Geza Schön has remained true to his fundamental concept: Molecule uses a single molecule, pure and undiluted; Escentric is a composition based on the hero molecule, which in this case is Cashmeran.
Geza Schön describes Cashmeran as “the abstraction of a hot summer on a Mediterranean island”. But as well as this wonderfully graphic description, 05 also pays homage to modern synthetic perfumery. The molecule was developed at the end of the 1970s by IFF. Cashmeran has an unusually complex and rich character. It combines a cocooning, musky softness with a dry, aromatic woodiness and a sweet and resinous pine note. Cashmeran has the star quality to shine as the main component in a fragrance – as Schön has shown with Molecule 05.
Cashmeran also plays the lead role in Escentric 05. Schön wanted to create a different kind of summer fragrance – and, as one would expect, it is far removed from the mainstream. For starters, it lacks the typical oceanic, marine notes, which he finds too artificial. He was inspired by a walk on a hot afternoon, up from the sea – and past aromatic Mediterranean herbs, shrubs, woods and orange groves. Accordingly, in 05, the olfactory journey takes you from bergamot and orange, through laurel, rosemary and other ingredients until you reach the Cashmeran and its piney warmth. It is a deeply sensuous journey that lingers on.
Escentric Molecules 05, which launches in spring, makes me yearn for summer – although it goes without saying that you can wear it at any time of year. This is no olfactory one-hit wonder for 2020. Instead it has a great future as one of tomorrow’s classic fragrances.