Need some good advice?

A fragrance is a lot like a relationship: you can just leave things to chance and perhaps get lucky – or you can let yourself be beguiled, led and, finally, seduced. Applied to perfume, we call this a fragrance consultation, and it is a pleasure you should really treat yourself to!

If you’re not familiar with the fragrance world and want some unbiased advice in your search for “your” perfume, then a fragrance consultation is ideal. But even if you know your own preferences, you should still consider a consultation as it can often open up new, unexpected ideas and perspectives.

The key ingredient in a good consultation is a skilled consultant. At will be a brand we always provide special training folders for the products we sell. Good consultants have profound knowledge and expertise in fragrances, they are familiar with the ingredients, the quality and, of course, the story behind each fragrance. In perfumery art more than perhaps in any other field, there’s often an inspiring story, idea or brilliant concept behind the actual scent. For example, The Beautiful Mind Series, Geschöpf or Escentric Molecules. Sometimes the application needs to be explained: with COMBINISM, for example, you can combine two separate fragrances.

A good fragrance consultant has the necessary instinct to sense what the customer needs. Appearances – for instance, what the customer is wearing or what car happens to be parked outside the shop – don’t count.  A skilled consultant will ask what the person’s favourite season is, what they do in their leisure time and what places are special for them. These are important pointers for what makes a person tick and which fragrance will match their personality, their life – or even “just” a special occasion.  

A successful consultation should never overburden the nose: class, not mass is the guiding principle. Four or five perfumes are more than enough; an artisan perfume is not something you pick up like a loaf of bread. Mornings are a good time for a consultation because the olfactory senses are still fresh. You should always dab your final choices on your wrist to allow the fragrance to develop on the skin and then, most importantly, take a walk around the block. Occasionally, you may get a surprise but it will almost always lead to a better, more informed decision.   

Whatever you do, don’t be afraid to ask! Sales consultants in perfume shops are passionate about what they do and love nothing better than applying all their skills to find the perfect match. What really makes them happy is seeing a customer blissfully leaving the shop with a new fragrance.

So, in conclusion: a fragrance consultation is a true pleasure. It can open the doorway to incredibly beautiful fragrances which you might never have discovered on your own and without unbiased advice.

ART AS AN EXPERIENCE FOR THE NOSE

“I fundamentally see beauty as being a moment in time”. For fashion designer Matthew Miller, beauty is a brief fleeting moment, so I am particularly pleased that the perfume label Verdúu has decided to honour the British designer with a fragrance. For me this is a very apt philosophy, as the idea of transience lies at the heart of every perfume. The fact that the designer sees fashion as a product adds an intriguing angle. 

Matthew Miller – the winner of the renowned Woolmark Prize 2017/18 – is the fifth young designer Verdúu has picked to feature on their olfactory catwalk. Like the other scents, the nose behind this wonderful composition is Mark Buxton, and as usual he brilliantly interprets the creative world of the fashion designer. The inspiration for the fragrance comes from the world of art: “Art is fundamental to design”, Matthew Miller once said. And that is why his fragrance has all the notes of an opening at a high-class art gallery: art as an olfactory experience – beauty captured in an unusual moment.

All of Verdúu’s fashion fragrances are available only in small 15ml bottles. This is such a brilliant idea, because it allows you to compile a small but exquisite “perfume library” and pick your “it” piece to match your mood and the season.

Stars, stars, stars

Atelier PMP is one of our youngest brands: the studio was founded five years ago in Hamburg and is the brainchild of multi-talent and brand-builder Daniel Plettenberg and fashion designer and artist Stefanie Mayr. The pair commissioned perfume artist Mark Buxton to create their first scents, Dreckig Bleiben, Concrete Flower and anti anti. The results are truly idiosyncratic, wonderfully composed fragrances, each of which tells a story – starting with the packaging: Dreckig Bleiben (Stay Dirty) has a cap made of smoked wood taken from an old half-timbered house, Concrete Flower features a cap made of concrete, while anti anti is capped with cool Italian marble.

I am delighted that these scents have been included in the latest edition of what industry experts and scent lovers alike regard as the fragrance bible: “Perfumes” by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. The biophysicist and scent scientist Turin has long been considered the “Perfume Pope”. His highly readable and profound comments – or should we say rulings – can occasionally be scathing, and no exception is made for the “big” fragrances (scent is always a matter of personal preference!). However, he was in no doubt about his opinion of the Atelier PMP creations: magnificent. All three of the brand’s fragrances are not only listed (and may I point out that it is an honour to get even within sniffing distance of the master…), but received a sensational four-star rating. The fact that three of the world’s leading fragrances come from a small studio in a rear courtyard in Hamburg’s arty Karolinenviertel district just goes to show the immense creativity and vision of perfume artistry and the people behind it. Congratulations to Atelier PMP! We are very happy for you – and are eagerly looking forward to your next project.

The best of two worlds

I am absolutely delighted to welcome a new brand to our portfolio: Urban Scents from our home city of Berlin. On second thoughts: let me modify that slightly as it isn’t quite accurate – the label can comfortably be described as very international.

The nose behind Urban Scents is French, and belongs to Marie Urban-Le Febvre. After training to become a perfumer at the top schools, she spent many years in the fragrance industry working for major houses, including Haarmann & Reimer, Symrise and Takasago. Now, in Berlin, she is creating her own scents under the label Urban Scents. The exquisite perfume oils are sourced in the scent capital of Grasse (I’m using the word capital to underscore the importance of the city…). The company that Urban Scents is collaborating with was founded by one of the really big perfumers of the 20th century, Edmond Roudnitska. This collaboration tells you a lot about Urban Scents: this is definitely a label with a heightened awareness of tradition and quality.

I am a massive fan of the heavy, night-blue bottles (which are made in northern France): the dark blue glass provides the perfect protection for the costly fragrances – and looks incredibly stylish. Wondering what the significance of the logo with the propeller is? Let me enlighten you: Marie Urban-Le Febvre is a passionate aviator. Also, her label Urban Scents aims to add a new spin on fragrance and steer into fresh olfactory terrains.

All seven fragrances (Gunpowder Cologne, Desert Rose, Lost Paradise, Vetiver Reunion, Dark Vanilla, Singular Oud and Sensual Blend) are exceptionally wearable without being too eager to please. They are exquisite, but not heavy. Their richness is not drawn from profusion, but from the outstanding quality of the choice ingredients and from the fine composition. 

I am particularly pleased that we will also be including the Urban Scents fragranced candles in our portfolio. Scented candles are definitely a matter of personal choice, and they often overwhelm me. Happily, this isn’t the case here, because Urban Scents distinguishes very clearly between home scents and body scents. The compositions of the candles are new and explicitly created for rooms. There are four fragrances (Club Lounge, Holy Wood, Oriental Tales and Matcha Green Tea – and they also come in beautiful, heavy blue glass holders). They are subtle persuaders with strong personalities.

In a nutshell: Urban Scents is the best of both worlds. Classic perfumery expertise meets the spirit of vibrant Berlin – and lifts off to new flights of fancy.

will be a brand presents: Verdúu – Haute Couture of perfumery art

The new label Verdúu is sending its fragrances down the catwalk – and we mean that literally: Mark Buxton’s fragrances were created especially for up-and-coming fashion designers.

A new fragrance label, the higher echelons of perfume artistry and four aspiring fashion designers from Berlin and London: these are the ingredients for fragrance creations that mark the arrival of the label Verdúu in the world of niche perfumes.

The nose behind the label’s fragrances is perfumer Mark Buxton – and his compositions are daring, bold scents that are not accessories, but statements. Each fragrance represents the designer Hien Le, Michael Sontag und Sissi Götze, their inspiration, character and unique creative vision. The latest addition to the portfolio is the fragrance for Christopher Shannon.

Shake it, baby! Christian Plesch with his new line, WACKELWASSER

The perfume designer raised the bar with his label NASENGOLD: fragrances that eschew frills and fancies, fragrances with a very modern insolence. Now, Plesch is launching a second line: WACKELWASSER, which comprises two modern, sensual and zesty unisex creations.

Two effervescent fragrance compositions, composed with truly delicious ingredients: chilled orange fizz meets ginger, hot pepper mingles with malt beer. The Hamburg perfume designer Christian Plesch has again demonstrated his unique creativity with LIGHT WACKELWASSER and DARK WACKELWASSER.

WACKELWASSER feels bubbly, it tickles the nose – and gives a long jolt of pleasure. Fragrance designer Christian Plesch says: “Goosebumps are entirely intentional!”

The unusual name of the new collection has it own story: “WACKELWASSER” (wobbly water) is what Christian Plesch’s young daughter called sparkling mineral water.

 

DARK WACKELWASSER | Loud, pulsating beats and ecstatic intoxication, darkness and dissipated anonymity. Precious essences that reach out and draw you in: ginger, jasmine and malt twist a cord; cedar wood pulls it tight, vetiver guards the knot.

LIGHT WACKELWASSER | The lascivious morning sun, a Rococo beauty spot, clothes that have slipped, improvised piano playing. Invisible puppet strings guide our way – woven from Champagne bubbles, jasmine flowers and caramel, bound together with cedar wood. Droplets of rum drip down thin threads, refreshing and intoxicating in equal measure.

 

Escentric Molecules 04 has arrived: Futurist freshness with Javanol

The Javanol molecule is at the heart of Escentric Molecules 04, the new fragrance creation by Geza Schön which takes sandalwood into a new dimension.

Radically reduced: Molecule 04

Molecule 04 contains pure Javanol, a next-generation sandalwood molecule that is powerful and yet soft. It unfolds to reveal a new take on sandalwood, without the heaviness and instead with a novel, soft, shimmering freshness.

A reinterpretation of sandalwood: Escentric 04

In Escentric 04, Javalnol is surrounded by other notes. The fragrance is a unique and very distinctive interpretation of sandalwood that is not heavily woody; instead, it is lifted in the headnote through the addition of zesty, bitter pink grapefruit peel, juniper and pink pepper. A hint of marihuana emphasises the soft aromas of grapefruit. At the heart, iris (orris) blossoms alongside a new rose accord composed by Geza Schön. Escentric 04 fades to the balsamic-woody note of Javanol and the slightly sweeter sandalwood molecule Polysantol.

The Escentric 04 fragrance pyramid

Top: Methyl Pampelmousse | Pink Grapefruit | Marijuana | Bergamot | Juniper Berry | Pink Pepper
Heart: Hedione | Freesia | Osmanthus | Orris | Rose
Base: Javanol | Mastic | Labdanum | Iso E Super | Musk | Ambroxan | Castoreum | Vetiver

Both fragrances are available through us from April on.

Eau de Parfum | 100 ml | RRP 130 €

Olfactive modernism: will be a brand presents anti anti by Atelier PMP

The third fragrance by the Hamburg label Atelier PMP is anything but “anti”. The Eau de Parfum was composed by perfume artists Mark Buxton and David Chieze  – an olfactive modernist statement that calls out for attention.

anti anti is not against, it is for: for life with all its ups and downs, for people with all their differences. anti anti is not a counter-fragrance, it is a modern creation for freedom of mind, freedom of being, freedom to be other. It celebrates the pleasure of the moment, and was created for people with attitude, people with inspiration and ideas.

anti anti is elegant and honest at the same time. It is ultra-modern and simultaneously soft and edgy, smoky and fresh – but always inscrutable. A creation that is as contradictory as a contemporary sculpture, presented in a bottle made of white marble, gold and glass.

anti anti is available to order from us now.

50 ml Eau de Parfum | RRP €120.00

Atelier PMP - anti anti

 

NEW: PROJECT RENEGADES

High Noon in the fragrance world: will be a brand presents Project Renegades

Project Renegades is the new all-star team from the world of artisan perfumes. Fragrance rebels Geza Schön, Mark Buxton and Bertrand Duchaufour have given their alter egos a free rein and let them loose as rebel cowboys in a fantasy Wild West: untamed, deeply creative and utterly out of control – with three fragrances that are available now from will be a brand.

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Geza Schön’s fragrance is an olfactory portrait of the Peruvian pepper tree – from berries to bark to leaves.

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Mark Buxton’s fragrance is woody, spicy – with a smoky leather rose blossoming at its heart.

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Bertrand Duchaufour’s fragrance opens with pink pepper – and ends in a bracing aquatic breeze.

Three perfumers, three fragrances, three avatars: wild, crazy and breathtakingly creative. These attributes sum up the triumvirate Schön|Buxton|Duchaufour and their Project Renegades. The packaging is peppered with bullet holes, the boxes feature tripped-out artwork that blends graffiti and steampunk comics, each bottle has a magnetic avatar of the perfume cowboy responsible for creating it – and the scents are in a world of their own.

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